藏地画谈||杨云：羌姆之舞

日期：2021-4-2 作者：Aipunyc 分类： 2021 浏览：254

画家：杨云

Painter: Yang Yun

从拉萨向西行四百二十余公里，翻越海拔五千多米的加措拉山。在冈底斯脉与喜马拉雅山脉之间的一片开阔的河谷地上，一座巨大的土红色城堡静静的矗立在谷底中央，这就是闻名青藏高原的萨迦寺。

Traveling westward from Lhasa for more than 420 kilometers, crossing the Gacola Mountain, which is more than 5,000 meters above sea level. In an open valley between the Gangdise and the Himalayas, a huge earth-red castle stands quietly in the middle of the valley. This is the Sakya Temple, which is famous on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.

这座地处海拔4300米的世界最高寺庙是藏传佛教萨迦派的祖寺，分南北两寺遥相对峙地坐落在仲曲河的两岸默默守望达千年之久！

This world's highest temple at an altitude of 4,300 meters is the ancestral temple of the Sakya sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The two temples are located opposite each other on the Zhongqu River banks and have kept watching for thousands of years!

“萨迦”藏语意为“灰白色的土地”，因仲曲河北岸奔波山土白色有光泽，呈现祥瑞之气，故依山始建北寺，遗憾的是，在一场文革的浩劫中北寺荡然无存。

"Sakya" in Tibetan means "gray-white land". Because the soil on the north bank of the Zhongqu River is white and shiny and presents an auspicious atmosphere, the North Temple was built on the mountain. Regrettably, the North Temple was destroyed in the catastrophe of a Cultural Revolution.

当站在这片巨大的断壁残垣的遗址上，遥想当年北寺的盛况该是何等的宏大？

When standing on this huge ruin, I wonder how grand was the Northern Temple back then.

萨迦寺第五代主持八思巴在公元1268年建成的南寺，距今已有900余年历史。在元代曾是西藏的政治、文化、宗教的中心，统治西藏达百年之久，足见萨迦寺在藏区的显赫地位了。

The fifth-generation head of Sakya Temple, Pasiba, built the South Temple in 1268, which has a history of more than 900 years. In the Yuan Dynasty, it was once the political, cultural, and religious center of Tibet. It ruled Tibet for more than a hundred years, which shows the Sakya Monastery's prominent position in Tibetan areas.

萨迦寺城堡由内外两道城墙合围。城墙上绘有象征文殊、观音和金刚菩萨的红、白、黑三道颜色，显得独特神秘。内墙高八米、宽三米，四角设四层高楼，四方佈有敌楼，仅东面有一道城门进出，称为“羊马墙”的外墙，由夯土筑成，北邻仲曲河，东、西、南三方，宽达八米的护城河遗址清晰可见。内外两道城墙形成坚固的防御体系。如此巨大的集汉、藏、蒙建筑艺术为一体的寺庙建筑群在中国历代的古建筑中屈指可数堪称一绝。

The Sakya Monastery Castle is surrounded by two walls inside and outside. The three colors of red, white, and black symbolizing Manjusri, Guanyin, and Vajra Bodhisattva are painted on the city wall, which is unique and mysterious. The inner wall is eight meters high and three meters wide. There are four-story-high buildings on four corners with defense stations on all sides. Only a city gate on the east side allows entrance and exit. The outer wall, called the "Sheep Horse Wall", is made of rammed earth. It is adjacent to the Zhongqu River in the north, and the moat ruins with a width of eight meters are clearly visible in the east, west, and south

更为珍贵的是，大经殿中现存的《布德甲龙马》经书，重达千余斤，是世界上最大的经书。西藏的前史、宗教、哲学、文学等经书中均有论述，保存有八万四千部之多的经书墙，高达八米其中两千八百多部元、明时期的手抄经书有千年的历史，极为珍贵。

What's more precious is that the existing "Budejia Longma" scripture in the Great Scripture Hall weighs more than a thousand kilograms and is the largest scripture in the world. The history, religion, philosophy, literature, and other scriptures of Tibet have been discussed. There is a wall of 84,000 scriptures, which is 8 meters high, of which more than 2,800 handwritten scriptures of the Yuan and Ming dynasties are thousands of years old.

每年藏历正月，最令人激动的萨迦寺金刚神午法会如期举行。2015年藏历新年的一天，我早早赶到萨迦等候跳神法会的举行。

Every year on the first month of the Tibetan calendar, the most exciting Sakya Monastery Vajrayana Ceremony is held as scheduled. On the Tibetan New Year's Day in 2015, I rushed to Sakya early to wait for the ceremony to be held.

跳神藏语意为“羌姆”，由原始巫舞，苯教祭祀舞和民间土风舞演变而成。羌姆舞是酬神醮鬼，驱邪祛灾的宗教祭祀活动。由高达两米造型夸张神态各异的佛王，菩萨、高僧、圣人的善相面具和护法神本尊神等怒像面具以及各种动物的面具组成。由僧人肩扛起舞。演出一个个民间奇异的传说。

Dancing God means "Qiang Mu" in Tibetan, which evolved from primitive witch dance, Bon sacrificial dance, and folk dance. The Qiang Mu dance is a religious sacrificial activity that rewards gods and ghosts and drives away evil spirits and disasters. It is made up of two-meter-high Buddhas with exaggerated appearances, good-looking masks of Bodhisattvas, monks, saints, guardian gods, and other sacred masks, as well as masks of various animals. Held by monks on the shoulder, performing strange folk legends one by one.

一大早，萨迦古城早已是热闹非凡，方圆数百里赶来的僧俗信众们守候在城堡的东门，等候神舞队的出现。

Early in the morning, the ancient city of Sakya was already very lively. The monks and believers who arrived hundreds of miles around were waiting at the east gate of the castle, waiting for the appearance of the god dance team

上午十时左右，一阵低沉的法号响起，城门洞开，身着华丽的宗教藏装，肩扛法神面具的仪式队伍缓缓从城堡走出。一时间群情激奋，祈福之声形成巨大的轰鸣回荡在萨迦古城......

At about ten in the morning, a low horn was sounded, and the city gate opened. Dressed in gorgeous religious Tibetan costumes, the ritual team with masks of the gods on their shoulders slowly walked out of the castle. For a time, the crowd was excited, and the sound of blessing formed a huge roar echoing in the ancient city of Sakya...

第一次目睹如此庞大的法神面具和古老的宗教藏装仪式队伍，使我惊讶无比。我闪动着快门追随着队伍，来到跳神法场，此时的法场已是人山人海，欢声鼎沸。

It was the first time to witness such a huge mask of the gods and the ancient religious Tibetan costume ceremonies. It astonished me. I followed the team with the shutter flashing and came to the magic field of Dance God. At this time, the field was full of people and joy.

午时，桑烟飘扬，法号锣鼓齐鸣，头戴高高的黄色鹅冠，身着袈裟的僧人在主持的带领下列队法场中央。梵音齐颂拉开了“羌姆神午”的序幕。

At noon, mulberry smoke fluttered, gongs and drums sounded in harmony, wearing a tall yellow goose crown, monks in cassocks were in the center of the practice field under the presiding leader. The Sanskrit Voice opened the prelude to the "Qiang Mu Shenwu".

身着不同宗教服饰的舞队轮番登场，或手持法器，或挥舞刀剑，或头顶法像，举手投足节奏缓慢大度，一招一式，尽透原始遗风。

Dance teams in costumes of different religions appeared in turn, holding magical instruments, or wielding swords, or statues on top of their heads. The rhythm of their movements was slow and generous, each move showed the original legacy.

法场东侧，萨迦寺主持端坐法台，左右两侧法乐队，僧人诵经队一字排开，诵经声起，梵音萦绕，场面肃穆壮观......

On the east side of the dharma field of the Sakya Monastery, the head sat on the platform, the bands stood on both sides, and monks formed one line to chant. The Sanskrit sounds lingered, and the scene was solemn and magnificent...

此时的我，早已无暇顾及，混迹于当地的新闻摄影者之中，来到法场中央。不停的按动快门，留下所有的精彩，其间有两次被清除场外，但不知不觉又深入腹地......

At this time, there no time to take care of other things. I mixed among the local journalists and arrived at the center of the field. Keep pressing the shutter, recording all the excitement. There were two times during the event that I was cleared out of the field, but I reentered the hinterland unknowingly...

落日西下，羌姆之舞结束。信众列队从众神面具下经过，他们躬身用额头亲贴法神，带着被超度的虔诚，心满意足的离开法场。

The sun sets, Qiang Mu dance was over. Believers passed under the masks of gods, bent their bodies to touch the god, and left the dharma field satisfied with excessive piety.

杨云作品 Yang Yun's Works