玛格丽特·伯克-怀特:我渴望看到真实的世界
“我渴望看到真实的世界……在那里,事情不必看起来令人信服,只要是真实的就行了。”——玛格丽特·伯克-怀特
“I longed to see the real world…where things did not have to look convincing, they just had to be true.”----Margaret Bourke-White
尽管玛格丽特·伯克-怀特既不是造型大师,也不是杰出的技术人员,但她是第一批真正理解用相机记录“正在创造的历史”的摄影师之一。她是摄影记者的先驱,推动了新闻摄影的建立与发展,帮助摄影记者建立了承诺、关注和纯粹精力的一系列标准,从那时起,这些标准就一直在努力实现。
Although Margaret Bourke-White was not a master stylist or an outstanding technician, she was one of the first people to really understand how to use the camera to record the "history being created." She was a pioneer of photojournalism who pushed the development of news photography, helped established standards for commitment, concern, and sheer energy that photojournalists have struggled to live up to ever since.
在进大学时,玛格丽特·伯克-怀特打算成为一名科学家,但她发现自己进了康奈尔大学之后,无力支付账单,甚至连一份服务员工作也不能找到。这时,她发现自己擅长摄影,于是,拿起了相机——一台20美元,镜头有一道裂缝的Ica Reflex相机——开始拍摄校园里的瀑布。她的照片被康奈尔校友新闻转载,很快,就有一些建筑师找她为他们设计的建筑拍照。
When she entered college, Margaret Bourke White wanted to be a scientist, but she was unable to pay the bills after she got into Cornell; she could not even get a job as a waitress. At this time, she discovered the ability to photograph, therefore she began shooting the waterfall on the campus with a 20 dollar, Ica Reflex camera that has a crack in the lens. Her photos were reprinted by her Cornell friends, soon after, architects asked her to take photos of their designs.
从康奈尔大学毕业后,玛格丽特·伯克-怀特开始从事专业摄影师的工作,不过,她成为摄影师也只是为了养活自己。她对当时飞速发展的技术特别感兴趣,用相机传达她从钟表部件到钢铁厂的一切事物中看到的力量和美丽。
After she graduated from Cornell, Margaret Bourke White began working as a professional photographer, yet that was only to make a living. Margaret Bourke White was very interested in the rapidly improving technology, she conveyed the strength and beauty she saw from watch parts to steel factories with the camera.
“工业中有一种力量和活力,这是摄影的绝佳题材。”1927年搬到克利夫兰,玛格丽特·伯克-怀特的整个冬天都钢铁厂拍照,这对女性来说是非常危险了。她爬上被雨夹雪浸透的 T 台,又因离钢水太近,皮肤被灼伤,相机起泡,她只能使用最简陋的摄影设备,——胶片和纸张的宽容度很小,负片感光度很慢,没有闪光灯。工厂规模巨大,明暗两极,在这种恶劣的环境里,她还是拍到了她想要的照片。
"There is a kind of strength and vitality in industry, this is an excellent photographic topic." She moved to Cleveland in 1927 and spend the whole winter taking photos of steel factories; it was very dangerous for a woman. She climbed up to the sleet-drenched catwalks, but because she was too close to molten steel, her skin was burned, the camera bubbled, she could only use the simplest photographic equipment. Film and paper had little latitude, negative emulsions were slow, there were no flashbulbs, no strobes, but she stilled got the desired photo in such a terrible environment where the light and shadow were at two poles.
1929年玛格丽特·伯克-怀特成为《财富》(Fortune)的第一位摄影师,用生动的图片和文字来捕捉工业的浪漫。然而,她的工作并不局限于机器部件和建筑项目。1934年,她报道了横扫大平原的“沙尘暴”(Dust Bowl)旱灾,展示了这场悲剧对农民及其家庭的生活的影响。这篇文章成为新闻摄影界的一个里程碑。尽管其他摄影师,如刘易斯·海因,也做过类似的社会问题报道,但没有人为大型杂志做过这样的报道。
In 1929, Margaret Bourke White became the first photographer of Fortune, she used lively images and words to capture the romance of industry. However, her work was not limited to machine parts and buildings. In 1934, she reported the Dust Bowl drought that wiped the Great Plains, showing the impact of this tragedy on peasants and their families. This article was a milestone in news photography. Although other photographers, like Lewis Hine, had done similar reporting on social issues, none had done so for a major magazine.
1936年,亨利·卢斯(Henry Luce)创办了一本致力于通过图片解读世界的杂志——《生活》,开创了新闻摄影的黄金时代。玛格丽特·伯克-怀特担任杂志的专职摄影师后,继续报道她擅长的技术进步和人类苦难。她为杂志拍摄了第一个封面,蒙大拿州的佩克堡水坝,引起了人们关注。
In 1936, Henry Luce founded Life, a magazine that was dedicated to interpreting the world through images, marked the beginning of the golden era of news photography. Margaret Bourke White held the position of the full-time photographer for this magazine and continued to report technologies and human hardships. She photographed the first cover for Life, which was Fort Peck Dam in Montana, and received people's attention.
玛格丽特·伯克-怀特真正的遗产是“为女性摄影师树立了榜样。其中许多人,甚至有些人的工作与她完全不同,都是以她为榜样受到激励。玛格丽特·伯克-怀特证明了女性有可能进入一个几乎完全由男性主导的行业,并最终成为该领域的佼佼者。”
——传记作家兼摄影评论家维姬·戈德堡
The real legacy of Margaret Bourke White “was to be a role model for women photographers. Many of these, even some whose work is nothing like hers, were spurred on by her example. Bourke-White proved that it was possible for a woman to break into what had been an almost exclusively male profession and end up at the top of the field.”
——Biographer and photography critic Vicki Goldberg
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